I checked out two accountants on my way home from opening a business bank account. It's difficult to get time with an accountant during tax season, but they spared a few minutes to answer my questions.
The first accountant I talked to ran a small office with a few other people. He had just finished talking to another client who did business on the Internet, so that was good to hear. He chuckled when I told him that I had just started a business and I wanted to make sure I did things right. "You can come by near the end of your fiscal year with a shoebox of receipts," he said. I told him I'd like to be more organized than that. (I'm the kind of person who updates her financial records every week or every other week and uses double-entry accounting for fun…) So I guess I don't have to worry so much, although I still want to set things up properly. (Hence the separate business account.)
The second accountant I talked to handled accounting, payroll, and tax returns. She seemed busy, so I took her business card and promised to look up her website. I like how she offers year-long consultations, and may probe this further once the personal tax season subsides.
It sounds like picking an accountant is less critical, then, although still a good idea. I'll find one sooner or later, possibly when things settle down enough for accountants.